DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router DCW620B

20V MAX XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router

Manufacturer: DEWALT
Model number: DCW620
Price: $349
Power source: 20V Max Battery
Motor size: 2 1/4 HP
Weight: 11.25 lbs ( Bare Tool)

A Legacy of Excellence

This plunge router is the result of nearly four years of development. DEWALT building on its experience with the successful 1-1/4 HP cordless router and a corded 2-1/2 HP model, aimed to push the boundaries of cordless technology. Drawing on its legacy dating back to Porter-Cable days, DEWALT sought to elevate the router’s performance to the next level with a 2-1/4″ HP cordless router.

This 2-1/4 horsepower heavy-duty plunge router has been designed with DEWALT’s signature attention to detail, the DCW620B offers the rugged durability, advanced features, and user-centric controls that pros need for precision work on demanding job sites. From its intuitive grip design to its innovative Anti-Rotation Safety System, this router is engineered to deliver exceptional performance while keeping you in control.

Why XR and Not FlexVolt?

Some may wonder why DEWALT opted for the XR 20-volt battery platform instead of the FlexVolt 60-volt system. The decision was driven by advancements in electronics and battery technology, which allowed them to achieve top-tier performance with a 20V battery. Additionally, their larger user base is mostly on the 20V platform, it made more sense for them to tailor the router to this group, maximizing accessibility, and of course profit.

DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router |Features

• Anti-Rotation Safety System
• Variable Speed Dial – 11k -23k RPM
• Tool Free Depth Adjustment System
• 3 Position Adjustable Turret Stops
• Thumb activated plunge lever and lock
• Dual angled LEDs
• Integrated Dust Collection

Collet and Bit Change

The DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router comes with two sized collets, the ¼” and the ½”. A pronounced and large spindle lock button along with the provided wrench allow for a straightforward bit and collet change with just one wrench.

Grip Mounted Activation

Proper handling of the router required two hands on each of the angled grips. The right grip house the on/Off trigger switch. To power the tool on you need to flip down the lock off lever that is mounted on the trigger and then squeeze the trigger to activate. A “soft start” activation minimizes jerk. With the trigger integrated into the main handle it is intuitive to continue to grip the trigger in the on position to keep the tool activated. Alternatively, there is a lock on switch located by the right thumb if you prefer.

Plunge Base and Depth Adjustment

The plunge lock lever is another highlight, located on the left grip, it is designed for precise depth adjustments. Inspired by DEWALT’s 3-1/4 HP router, the lever’s length and angle were adjusted for easier operation, providing a more ergonomic and comfortable user experience. This new design reduces the risk of unintentional movement during plunge applications, allowing for smoother, more controlled cuts.

The router plunge motion is locked by default. To lower router the plunge lock lever located by the thumb can be depressed while applying downward pressure against the springs. Releasing the thumb lever will lock the plunge depth at that height. The plunge lever can be locked in it down position with an audible click. The plunge motion is then free to go up and down with simple pressure on handles (or lack thereof) without the need to have your thumb on the lever.

The router features a straightforward depth rod with depth guide markings. The router has a maximum routing depth of 3.15″. The rod can be easily locked and unlocked with a quick release lever. The base of the depth rod has micro adjustment feature that can be manipulated by hand without any tools.

Additionally, the rotating turret stop for multi pass through cuts features individually adjustable tiers. These stops do require a wrench to adjust so we envision these will seldom need adjusting but it is a nice option to have.

Anti-Rotation Gyroscope System

The wide dual handed grips give the user great control and stability with cutting. However, this 2 ¼ HP router has a ton of power and is meant for big cuts with large bits. Large bits combined a lot of power has the recipe for serious kickbacks torquing motions. Perhaps the greatest feature of this router is the Anti-Rotation Gyro System, borrowed from other DEWALT tools like drills. This system senses motion and automatically shuts down the tool for added safety.

If a sudden twisting motion is detected, the motor will immediately power off saving the user the need to battle a potential out-of-control router. The tool will not power on again until the power switch is deactivated, and the Anti-Rotation light goes out.

Overload Protection

Located right next to the Anti-Rotation light is a triangular light that indicates an overload state. If the router detects you are pushing the bit too fast into the material a white LED will flash until pressure is reduced and RPMs increase.

Dust Extraction

The DEWALT DCW620 features an integrated dust collection system that starts with a clear plastic shroud designed into the baseplate. The router’s vertical dust chute offers improved line-of-sight while cutting. DEWALT recognized that many users position a vacuum hose over their shoulder for ease, and this vertical design makes that setup much more convenient. Dust is extracted up through the right plunge column where a vacuum hose can be connected. The tool comes with a dust extraction tube adapter that mates with the top of the column and is design to connect to a compatible DeWalt quick lock system.

Unfortunately, if you do not already have a DEWALT quick-lock or AIRLOCK compatible system, dust hose connection can be awkward and frustrating.

Overall, the dust extraction is excellent. When performing cutting on an edge like a round-over or chamfer, an additional dust collection shroud can be attached to collect dust and chip falling below.

Speed Control and Closed-Loop Electronics

While most cordless routers operate at around 25,000 RPM, DEWALT chose to run this model at a slightly lower 23,000 RPM. The router’s closed-loop electrical system was designed to maintain this speed even under load, ensuring a consistent and controlled performance. This deliberate decision gives the router better control over speed and torque, unlike competitors whose performance dips under pressure.

What’s Included

• (1) 20V MAX* XR® 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router (Tool Only)
• (2) Sub-base
• (1) 30mm Guide Bushing
• (1) 1/4 in. (6.4mm) Collet with nut
• (1) 1/2 in. (12.7mm) Collet with nut
• (1) Wrench
• (1) Dust cap
• (2) Dust Shield
• (1) Dust port w/ AIRLOCK Compatibility
• (1) Chip collector
• (1) Centering cone

The DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router is a plunge base only tool, that is it does not come with a fixed based like some of its competitors. The router comes with two sub bases, one optimized for dust extraction and the second for use with guide bushings for template work.

The router comes with both a 1/4″ and 1/2″ collet and a single wrench for collet and bit changes. Additionally, a centering cone is included if the base plate needs to be adjusted or replaced.

What’s NOT included

With the DCW260B only being sold as a “Tool Only” option there are a few things that you may find yourself searching for.

First and foremost is the recommended power option. While any 20V Max battery will power the router, DEWALT themselves recommend that to get the true performance out of the tool, a 20V Max Power-stack battery is required.
The DEWALT 2 1/4 HP Plunge Router is also compatible with an edge guide or side fence. Unfortunately, no side fence is included and must be purchased separately.

DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router | Price

DEWALT only offers the DEWALT 20V MAX XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router as a bare tool. It is currently priced at ACME Tools for $349. It is our hope that they will soon offer this router kitten with XR batteries and a storage case to protect the tool and accessories.

Final Thoughts on the DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router

The DEWALT 20V MAX XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router isn’t just another plunge router; it’s a robust tool crafted for professional-grade applications. From the moment I turned it on and heard its smooth starting powerful sound I knew this was going to be a next-level router for them.

With features like the Anti-Rotation System, variable speed control, and integrated dust collection, it’s clear that DEWALT has put serious thought into the needs of contractors. The power of this router is also impressive, and you can hear it when routing Oak, Maple and Poplar.

While the router’s price and the “Tool Only” configuration may require some additional purchases, the power, versatility, and safety this tool offers make it a worthy investment for those who demand the best from their tools. Whether you’re making precise cuts on a custom project or tackling heavy-duty tasks like plywood cut outs, the DCW620B is built to perform in the trades.

DEWALT 20V XR 2-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router Review is a post from Tool Box Buzz

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router Review 2838-2

MILWAUKEE ½” Cordless Router Review 2838-2

Manufacturer: MILWAUKEE
Model number: 2838-21
Price: $349 Bare Tool | $599 Kitted
Power source: M18 battery [cordless]
Motor size: 2.25 HP
Weight: w/ 6.0 Ah battery 8.8 lbs. [6.2 lbs. without battery]

For me, the most exciting feature about this router is that its more powerful than a trim router, boasting 2-1/4 HP, and it allows for either a ¼” or ½” collet. The higher 2-1/4 horsepower and larger 1/2-inch shank are better suited for heavy-duty routing jobs with larger bits. Additionally, I prefer using ½” router bits because they resist deflection better than a 1/4-inch shank bits. Larger shank router bits are especially important when using a long bit, which is subject to greater deflection, and when using a piloted bit, with a bearing.

First Impression

At first glance this router appears to be well made, with a robust aluminum housing, well placed controls, levers, and smart rubber over-mold. It’s plunge mechanism and adjustments feel solid, buts lets break this router kit down further and discuss it in detail.

M18 Router Features

• 2.25 peak horsepower
• ¼” or ½” collets
• Plunge base with 2.5” of travel height.
• Fixed base [Diameter 6”]
• Edge guide
• Dust collecting shroud.
• 6-step depth turret provides quick, depth adjustments at 1/8” increments.
• Depth rod has a micro-adjust knob allowing 1/4” adjustments in 1/64” increments.
• Macro-adjust button provides fast adjustments throughout the 2” of total fixed base travel.
• Variable speed dial from 25k to 12k
• Weight w/ 6.0 Ah battery 8.8 lbs. [6.2 lbs. without battery]
• Height 10.5”

Spindle Lock | Bit Changing

Changing the router bit on the Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router is straightforward and can be done in two ways. A large red spindle lock button is located on the side of the router housing. This button locks the spindle, and must be held in, for a one-wrench bit change. Alternatively, you can use the two provided wrenches to change the bit.

M18 Router | Power Switch

The power switch is activated easily by sliding up with your thumb. This button is spring-loaded, allowing the router to be switched off with the slightest touch. I liked this safety feature and I appreciate that the electronic brake stops the router instantly, another nice safety feature.

LED Lights | Translucent Bases

The router body has two LED lights, and combined with translucent bases, worked well at illuminating the workpiece.

6 Variable Speed Settings

The RPM can be changed by the variable speed dial and is intuitive. The higher numbers correspond to faster rpm speeds and lower numbers to slower rpm speeds.

I typically use faster speeds for smaller router bits, softwoods, plastic, and laminates. The slower speeds are best used with larger cutters.

• Setting 1 – 12,000 RPM
• Setting 2 – 14,600 RPM
• Setting 3 – 17,200 RPM
• Setting 4 – 19,800 RPM
• Setting 5 – 22,400 RPM
• Setting 6 – 25,000 RPM

Milwaukee Fixed Base

The fixed base has a full-hand sized rubber over mold and a Velcro strap that allows for comfortable one-handed use. The fixed base has two ergonomically designed, rubberized handles that are securely mounted and indexed with a dado into the router body, preventing them from moving. The fixed base comes with a clear plastic sub-base plate with a 2-1/2” opening.

An optional, supplied 6” sub-base plate that accepts 1-3/16” guide bushings for templating is included, the dust shroud indexes nicely into the base. The router base plates have the same hole configuration as my legacy Porter Cable 690 router.

When mounting the fixed base, it indexes on the router only one way, and is clearly designed for a comfortable right-handed user power switch operation. Left-handed users must do what they always do – adapt!

The router is equipped with a micro-adjust knob and the fixed base has a macro-adjust button with over 2” of travel. Adjusting the depth of cut is intuitive and easy to do by opening the locking lever and pressing the macro- adjust button with your other hand and then releasing to lock in an approximate depth of cut.

To fine tune your depth of cut, you can then rotate the micro-adjustment dial which moves the router base in 1/64 increments. Once you achieve your desired dept of cut, close the locking lever.

Milwaukee Plunge Base

The plunge router base also has two ergonomically designed, rubberized handles that are securely mounted and indexed with a dado into the router body, preventing them from moving. This base is also right-hand, power switch oriented. The plunge base comes with a clear plastic sub-base plate with a 2-1/2” opening.

Located on the left side of the router and smartly placed, the lever is activated by pushing down with your left thumb. Releasing the lever locks the router in place. The plunge base has a travel height of 2.5”

The routers macro-adjustment knob does not work on the plunge base. When using the plunge base, you can adjust the depth of cut can be set two ways:

1. Single pass cuts [cuts 1/8” deep or less]
2. Multiple pass cuts [cuts more than 1/8” depth]

The depth stop turret on the plunge base has 6 settings:

• 0
• 1/8”
• ¼”
• 3/8”
• ½”
• 5/8”

Additionally, the depth control rod has a micro adjustment knob at the depth rod bottom. This adjustment allows for a 1/4” of total micro adjustment on the depth rod. The thread on the micro-adjustment is 3/8”, but it’s recommended to leave at least 1/8” of thread engaged for a tight connection. This is a nice feature and one that I found myself using.

Single Pass Cutting

This is useful for making a single pass cut like a hinge mortise cut. To do this:

1. Rotate the depth stop turret so the 5/8” [highest] setting is directly under the depth rod.
2. Loosen the depth rod adjustment, and then unlock and hold the plunge release lever while lowering the router until the bit touches the workpiece, then release the plunge lever.
3. Then raise the rod and slide the piece to be mortised [e.g., hinge leaf] between the top of the turret and the depth rod, then tighten down the adjustment.
4. When the plunge base is engaged the depth of cut will be set to the hinge depth.

Multiple Pass Cutting

For cuts deeper than 1/8” multiple passes are needed. To do this:

1. Rotate the turret to its lowest setting [full depth] directly below the depth rod. Loosen the depth rod adjustment, and then unlock and hold the plunge release lever while lowering the router until the bit touches the workpiece, then release the plunge lever.
2. Slide the depth indicator to zero and then raise the depth rod to the desired height and tighten down.
3. Release the plunge lever, raising the router, and set the turret to its highest setting.
4. After making your first pass, rotate through the turret settings for controlled 1/8” deep passes.

Dust Collection Shroud | 2 Methods of Attachment

The dust shroud has two methods of attachment:

1. With straight edge guide.
2. Without straight edge guide, using “u-rod” connector.

The dust shroud inserts into both bases, from only one side, and is held securely in place with either the provided u-rod connector, or with the straight edge guide rails and thumb screws.

I really liked how the “u-shaped” rod connector locked in the dust shroud – it’s intuitive, easy to use, and a great design.

The dust chute design was designed to be used on either side of the base, for added flexibility across the range of accessories, such as the edge guide, track adapter, plunge base.

We note that the angle of the chute maintains clearances and seemed to help limit interference with the hose and accessories.

Universal Dust Adapter

The router kit also comes with a universal dust adapter that clips and locks securely onto the dust shroud. The adapter fits 1-1/2” to 2-1/4” vacuums hoses, or you can connect a vac directly to the 1-3/8” diameter dust shroud.

Milwaukee Router | Template Base

The plastic shroud indexes into the template base, which has holes in it to better capture dust in blind cuts like template work or blind dados. It was designed for smaller diameter bits and its performance is best seen when using smaller bits.

Plunge Base Spring

The Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router has excellent power and an excellent feature set. It is easy to use and set up.

I noticed when using the router that the plunge spring is strong, requiring some force to lower. For this reason, you’ll want to ensure that your depth of cut is set when plunging. There was no wobble or slop felt in the plunge pillars or mechanism.

Milwaukee Edge Guide

The edge guide indexes into two slots located in both bases. It is solidly built and is secured with two thumb screws. The only thing I noticed is that the kit only comes with one set of thumb screws meaning you must remove them from one base, to use with the other base.

The guide works like it’s supposed to and gives you a reach of 9” from its farthest point, assuming you have the rods seated into one half of the base, with an additional 1-1/2” of secondary adjustment.

The edge guide can attach on either side of the router base. I found this flexibility useful and can see it being used with jigs and different situational needs on the jobsite. I added an auxiliary fence to my guide – there are 4 holes provided to add a fence.

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router | Run-time Testing

To evaluate run-time, I routed ¾” wide dados, 1/8” deep, in Red Oak using a new ½” shank router bit. I used the stepped turret to make increasing deeper dados, 1/8” deep at a time for a total of 112.6 feet. The router variable speed was set at 4.5, not by choice but, because I forgot to check it.

When cutting ¾” dados the sweet spot seemed to be to use 1/8 to ¼” deep cuts, but this is all dependent on your wood species, feed rate, sharpness of bit, and size of bit.

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router| Plywood  Test

I know lots of you are wondering if this router has the power to cut through plywood sheathing for window cut outs. I mocked up a small wall section with ½ plywood and using a spiral flush trim bearing-bit to cut out a window. The Milwaukee had power to spare cutting through the plywood – it was a super easy process.

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router | Dust Collection Test

I tested the dust collection while cutting ¾” dados, 1/8” deep in Red Oak. The dust collection was ok, not great. I should qualify this statement by saying I’ve never used a handheld router that had good dust collection. I find the best dust collection is achieved by using a router table and shop quality dust collection system.

While evaluating the dust collection I tried the shroud on both sides of the router and experimented with feed rates. I observed that using a slower feed rate did improve dust collection, as did raising the bit and returning it back over the dado. When I did this, the vacuum was able to remove all the sawdust in the dado.

Dust shroud note: It is not recommended that you plunge route with bits larger than the 1-3/8” dust port opening.

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router | PVC Dust Test

On our job sites we typically use a trim router for small stuff but if were doing a big trim project we set up a 1-3/4 Porter Cable 690 router into a drop in router table. Wanting to be 95% cordless on our job sites, and curious about the dust collection, I decided to test the Milwaukee router in our table.

I had to do a slight field modification to the dust shroud for it to fit under the table, with the universal adapter. Because of the angle of the dust shroud, it hit the bottom of the table. To get it to fit better I sanded a little bit of the plastic off the shroud – it worked and fit under the table no problem.

We used the Milwaukee router to create windowsills and ease the edges of out interior trim, but the real win was routing PVC. PVC leaves a huge mess and we wanted to test the router with dust collection while routing. If you don’t hog out a ton of material in one pass the under table mounted dust collection system worked better than our dado test. Result, we’re sold on this set up for future pvc routing.

Using the Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router

The Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router has excellent power and an excellent feature set. It is easy to use and set up.

I noticed when using the router that the plunge spring is strong, requiring some force to lower. For this reason, you’ll want to ensure that your depth of cut is set when plunging. There was no wobble or slop felt in the plunge pillars or mechanism.

Improvement Suggestions

The Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router kit is a comprehensive kit, if I had to offer Milwaukee something to improve on, I would suggest they include a second set of thumb screws for the base-plate [edge guide]

Another thing I will point out is the actual base plate screws. Now maybe it’s because I’m used to the legacy 690 router screws, but I did not like the Torx, Panhead base-plate screws, they didn’t fit in my plexiglass insert plate. The plexiglass plate has countersink holes, and the Torx screw heads protruded. I ended up using Porter Cable Flat [undercut] machine base plate screws.

The Torx screws feels like a modern improvement, but the reality is that a Phillips screwdriver is more popular and available on the job site. The Torx screws also had a blue thread-locker on them, making them a bit slow to remove.

While we’re on the topic of base-plates, I learned the hard way that the base plate has a protruding tab that indexes into the router plate, securely holding it in plate while you insert the screws. There is only one way for this to lock in and if you forget you’ll be looking at your base-plate not seated properly and must unscrew it to correct it. I’m guessing you’ll only do that once!

What’s Included in the Milwaukee 2338-21 Kit

• Router
• 6” Fixed base with a 2-1/2” opening
• 6” Plunge base
• 6” sub-base plate accepts 1-3/16” guide bushings for templating
• ¼” and ½” collets
• Straight edge guide
• Dust collection shroud and locking “U-rod”
• Universal hose adapter
• 6.0 XC battery
• Rapid charger
• 2 wrenches
• Tool bag

Price

The Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router kit sells for $599 at ACME Tools online, or as a bare tool for $349.00.

A very cool optional track adapter accessory is also available. Selling for $119 this adapter would be awesome when building [i.e., bookcase pin holes, dados, cabinets] The track adapter fits both the ½ router and the trim router and will work on Milwaukee, Makita and Festool tracks.

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router | Overall Thoughts

Overall having the ability to use a cordless router with ½ shank router bits for larger profiles is huge. This Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router has the power, functionality, and accessories to compete with corded plunge and fixed base routers. It’s well made, and the kit is comprehensive.

We’ve been impressed using and testing it. It’s found a home in my van for sure!

Milwaukee ½” Cordless Router Review is a post from Tool Box Buzz

Metabo HPT 18V Cordless Trim Router M1808DA Review

Metabo HPT 18V Cordless Trim Router

Manufacturer: Metabo Hot
Model number: M1808DA
Price: 149.00
Power source: 18/36 Volt and AC/DC
Motor size: Brushless 10,000-30,000 rpms
Weight: 2.5 lbs

It’s impressive to note that Metabo HPT is the only tool company I’m aware of that allows you to power ALL of their cordless tools in three different ways:

1. Lightweight 18V battery
2. 18V/36V MultiVolt battery.
3. Plugged into an AC adapter power cord. [ET36A]

As long as you have one AC adapter, as a carpenter, you’ll never have to worry about dead batteries at the end of the day. You can just plugin! It’s simply cheap insurance – and something no other company has done so far.

Trim Router Features

• Variable speed dial: 10,000 – 30,000
• Accepts 1/4-in and 3/8-in router bits
• Soft start motor & quick brake
• Weighs 2.5 lbs
• 2 LED lights

You do notice the 2.5 lbs., this brushless router is light in your hands and pretty compact. I used it with a larger battery but it will run with the Metabo HPT 1.5 Ah battery.

The router has a two-button power safety switch. The first “power button” turns on the power of the tool and the second “switch button”  turns the router on. There is a 10-second timeout allowed.

The power button felt thin and not that high of quality. I would prefer to see a more robust switch on a Pro router.

The router comes with both a ¼” and 3/8” collet inserts. I can imagine these small collet inserts getting lost easily and would have like to see solid collets offered.

The router also comes with a ball-bearing trimmer guide, straight guide, template, dust collection port, and a bit changing wrench. I used the straight guide to cut some rabbits into a board and really liked its adjustments.

I also like the rack and pinion depth adjustment and clamp. It’s smooth and easy to use.

The Metabo HPT router has plenty of power. I used it to make handrails for an outside staircase, and a half-round PVC window surround. The router easily plowed through Mahogany with a round-over bit. Like all of the other trim routers I’ve used, I had to remove the sub-base in order to use my round-over bit. The Metabo HPT router square base removes and there is enough sub-base to still use the router with larger bits – I like that!

While routing, I accidentally turned the router off with my hand placement – this happened twice. This is probably due to a learning curve, but a recessed switch would solve this issue.

This router also has two bright LED lights that illuminate the work area well.

Improvements to the Metabo HPT Trim Router

Usually, when I use a trim router I let the dust fly, but I know many of you use dust collection. The Metabo HPT router has a clear plastic dust shroud that indexes into the base and is held in place with a thumbscrew

I connected a vacuum to the dust collection port but was disappointed that it continually disconnected at the thumbscrew knob. It does this when pressure is applied with the vac hose opposite the thumbscrew.

I added a washer for added pressure and it still happened. Metabo HPT needs to make this connection stronger.

Cost

The MultiVolt System sells as a bare tool with accessories for approximately $150 at Lowe’s, Menards, Amazon, and select independent dealers online.

Include Accessories 

• 1/4″ Collet Cone  (377118)
• 3/8″ Collet Cone  (377134)
• Trimmer Guide  (377127)
• Straight Guide Set  (377126)

Overall Impression

The Metabo HPT trim router has the power to handle pro applications. I’ve now used it to make window sills, Mahogany handrails, champers in PVC, and rabbits Pine boards.

Its compact, powerful, comes with great accessories, and is priced right.

Metabo HPT 18V Cordless Trim Router Video Review

Metabo HPT 18V Cordless Trim Router is a post from Tool Box Buzz

Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router M 3612DA

Metabo HPT 36V Cordless Plunge Router Kit 2 1/4 HP

Manufacturer: Metabo HPT
Model number: M3612DAM
Price: 399.00
Power source: AC/DC Cordless
Motor size: 2 HP
Weight: 6.6 lbs

The fact that the Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router takes both ¼” and ½” collets means I can use all of my router bits which saves me money and gives me greater versatility. Especially since I have a lot of ¼” bits.

At only 6.6 lbs, this 2 horsepower, a brushless router operates from 11,000 to 25,000 RPMs and can be counted to produce a 46 feet per minute production speed.

The ergonomic grip, along with a handle-mounted, lock-on switch, is intuitive and comfortable. There is a well-placed, plunge lock knob near the trigger.

The Metabo HPT router has an impressively fast electric brake. Depth adjustment was easy to do, and there are three depth stop adjustments, two are adjustable.

When mounting accessories like the dust shroud and the template collets I learned two things.

1. The collet needs to go on first, then the dust shroud. So there is no easy on and off or swapping out of collets. If you need to swap stuff out, you’ll need to remove the dust shroud. It’s not a big deal but it is a pain.
2. If using both the collet and dust shroud, the thumb nut that secures it, barely catches. Basically, the treaded bolt for this assembly needs to be a bit longer.

Using the Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router

When using the router I noticed that the power was good, there is low vibration and the dust collection works well for the airborne dust. When routing fluted columns I noticed no airborne dust but there was plenty of sawdust left in the flutes. The plastic dust shroud will only work with router bits up to 1-1/4″ in diameter.

I was impressed that this router will run a 1/2″ mortising bit with a quarter-inch pass without flinching. Additionally, the base allows for much larger diameter router bits than the other cordless routers I’ve used. That’s really nice.

I tested the Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router freehand, with a fluting jig and also with the included straight guide.

Another nice feature is the LED lights that illuminate on the base when the trigger is activated, and they stay for 10 seconds afterward.

Unique MULTIVOLT System

Something that many people don’t get is the value behind the multi-volt adapter. This router runs on both AC/DC power. It accepts the Metabo HPT 36V slide-type batteries and the AC adapter.

Room for Improvement?

There are 2 areas I think Metabo HPT should consider.

1. One is the slop in the plunge lock knob. After using the router, I feel that this knob has too much throw, and wiggles a bit – this is the only area on this tool that I’m concerned about for longevity.
2. The second is that when you remove the battery and tip the router on its back to change the bit the router troops over easily. If Metabo HPT elongated the battery slide rails the router would be more stable.

Other than that, there were no real negative issues with this tool, and everything worked as it was supposed to.

Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router Price

The Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router sells for $399 at Lowes as a kit which includes

• Router
• (1) 36V 2.5 Ah battery
• (1) charger
• (1) bag
• ½” and ¼” collets
• wrench
• template guide set
• straight guide
• dust collector shroud

Overall Impression

As a carpenter, I use a compact router to make my own window sills when trimming windows, easing edges on decking and trim, creating chamfers, installing built-ins, mortising hinges, and sometimes making on-the-spot moldings.  More and more contractors are cutting the cord on their job sites and the ability for a cordless router to move freely around a job site is a huge plus.

I think Metabo HPT hit a home run by offering an AC / DC capable, plunge router that can take either 1/4″ or 1/2″ router bit collets. They solved two PAIN points that the smaller competition routers have.

Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router Video Review

Metabo HPT 36 Volt Multi-Volt Cordless Router Review is a post from Tool Box Buzz

A Seed Change in the CNC World

Many of us have heard the expression “Seed Change.” It means a disruption in the status quo.  The origin of the term comes from the agricultural practice of rotating entirely new and radical crops. The modern meaning acknowledges a complete change of the perception of a field of knowledge or practice.

I have seven years of experience with CNC Machines and workflows. I recently had the pleasure to test out and review a truly unique and revolutionary CNC machine. That machine is the YetiTools, LTD, SmartBench.

Getting into the CNC World

I dove headlong into the CNC experience in early 2013. My son had recently purchased an antique house in need of 18 steam radiator covers. Their first child was on the way, and they were very concerned with a crawling child running up against a hot steam radiator. The covers they found in various places ranged in price from $400 – $650 each, finished and installed.

Of course, each radiator in the house had a different shape and size, so there were no real production efficiencies in fabricating them. They were looking at a project worth between $7,200 and $11,700.

I made my son an offer to take $2,500 of his radiator cover budget and give it to me to purchase the electronics and supplies needed to build a CNC machine. After fabricating the CNC, I would make the covers for him for the cost of materials. The transaction was agreed to, and it turned out to be a great deal for both of us.

I designed and built “La Machine” (named by one of my daughters) in July of 2013 and fabricated his covers soon after.

Since 2013, I have fabricated over 1,970 different projects/pieces on my CNC machine. La Machine is still going strong, although I have made many machine upgrades and improvements over seven years. Almost every upgrade made La Machine a more robust structure to improve both speed and accuracy.

My Introduction to the SmartBench

As part of the Toolboxbuzz crew, I have had the great pleasure of meeting many people from all over the construction and tool industry. It has been an enriching experience for my vocational and my avocational interests. Moreover, Toolboxbuzz has put me into contact with tools and people I would never have met on my own.

In late 2019, when Toolboxbuzz started to plan a Head-to-Head competition for cordless track saws, we were quite interested in attracting and testing the best saws in the world. While many manufacturers and tool companies knew Toolboxbuzz, we were a relatively unknown entity to the US distributor of Mafell equipment, Timberwolf Tools. We wanted to test a Mafell cordless track saw in our upcoming Head-to-Head and sent an invitation to Timberwolf Tools.

President of Timberwolf Tools, David Powell, was interested in the Toolboxbuzz invitation to join the cordless track saw Head to Head. However, he wanted to meet with Rob Robillard and me first. David wanted to interview us to determine our testing capabilities and understand our proposed testing procedures for the cordless track saws. David had many questions that we could best answer in person.

Rob and I met with David Powell in late December of 2019 in my barn to discuss the cordless track saw test and review. David planned to be in Connecticut and was traveling to his home in Maine. So it was convenient for him to stop off in Concord/Carlisle, Massachusetts, for the meeting.

When David arrived, I slid open the barn door to my workshop, and the first thing David saw was my CNC machine. We had a brief discussion about how and why I made the CNC, and then we began the meeting on the cordless track saws. When the meeting was breaking up, David asked if I would be interested in taking a call from him to dive into more depth and details on CNC machines. We talked a few days later.

The discussion was far-ranging about my experiences with the development and use of the CNC machine. At the end of the conversation, David told me about a CNC machine from the UK called SmartBench that he had an opportunity to import and sell and asked if I had any interest in reviewing it for him. David offered to send over a unit from the UK, and I offered to use the device in my work and to give him my frank opinion on its performance and design

First impressions on the SmartBench:

While waiting for the delivery, I looked at all of the media I could find on the SmartBench. The first thing that struck me was the SmartBench’s ability to process a full-sized 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood. Its large capacity is a by-product of the innovative machine design that uses a two-piece traveling gantry on the long axis to ‘clamp’ the material between the two halves of the Y-axis gantry. The upper and lower gantry pieces contain rollers that keep the material clamped tightly with the spindle head and machine bed during the gantry travel.

I also learned that the YetiTool designers thought a critical design feature for the SmartBench machine was its ability to be transportable from Jobsite to Jobsite. It was an interesting perspective as my experience has me believe CNC machines are stationary tools that do not move between job sites.

Perhaps the most intriguing feature of the SmartBench was how its unique physical configuration creates an accurate and strong machine. Having designed a CNC machine, I have gone through the tradeoff decisions of machine stiffness vs. cost vs. deflection. The first image I saw of the SmartBench told me the SmartBench design eliminates a great source of backlash (slop) by its unique configuration.

Here is a rundown on the characteristics of the SmartBench.

SmartBench Features:

• Full Sheet 4′ x 8′ portable 3D CNC Router
• Cutting height of nearly 6″ (cutter length dependent) with quick and accurate Z-axis calibration for each tool
• Easily transportable with van, truck, or SUV
• Setup and breakdown SmartBench in 3 to 5 minutes, and < 1-minute tool change-outs
• Brilliant, easy to read color interface with programming functions
• Fast and easy Wi-Fi or USB drive file transfer
• High-efficiency dust collection and removal with an attached vacuum (accessory)
• Finished part accuracy +/- 0.02″ or better, depending on feed rates and number of passes
• Autonomous cutting (set it up and let it run while you prepare the next project)
• Compatible with many materials, including  wood, composites, hard & soft plastics, and non-ferrous metals

SmartBench Specifications

Moment Forces Acting in a CNC Machine:

Let me give you a quick explanation of what I mean by this term and why it is an important design consideration.

Accuracy and repeatability are perhaps the two most essential factors in designing a commercial CNC machine. The YetiTool engineers seemed to have recognized and taken on those two design challenges.

A bending moment is a reaction in a structure when external forces are applied at a certain distance.

Most of us learned about moment forces and reactions at an early age from climbing trees. When you put your foot on a limb far from the trunk, the branch bends. Depending on how heavy you were, the branch bends farther the more you weigh. When you climb near the top of the tree, and the branches become smaller in diameter, you placed your feet closer to the trunk. I was always amazed at how much weight a small branch could take when you put your feet right next to its trunk. When the tree climber’s moment force exceeds the branch’s strength, the result may well be broken bones.

In the CNC world, the same situation applies. As the machine moves the cutting bit into the workpiece, the driving forces create a moment that the machine components must resist. In the case of my CNC, if I apply a force of 380 oz on the X-axis to move the cutting bit, my Y-axis gantry must resist this force to ensure the bit remains horizontal with little or no deflection. A greater applied force will move the gantry faster. The structure must resist the increased moment. That is why many conventional CNC machine designs appear sturdy enough to go off and fight in a war. Their designers made them with tall gantries, rigid structures and heavy-duty enough to counter the moment forces created by high-speed/ high force usage.

La Machine’s design locates the centroid of its Y-axis 12.5 inches above the machine bed. If I apply a 380 oz force in the Y-axis direction, the resulting moment is 297 in-lbs. (33.5 Nm for metric). The image below shows this moment diagram.

Now let us calculate the same 380 oz force acting in the Y-axis direction on the SmartBench configuration. In this case, the centroid resisting the load is located 3.2 inches above the machine bed, resulting in a moment of 76.0 in-lbs. (8.59 Nm). The moment diagram shows this result.

A SmartBench can resolve a 380 oz force with its structure needing the stiffness to resist only 25.6 % of the moment compared to La Machine. Another way to analyze the numbers assumes the SmartBench structure to be capable of withstanding the same 297 in-lb moment as La Machine. Theoretically, then, SmartBench could achieve and tolerate a force of 1,344 oz.

In summary, the SmartBench puts it’s ‘feet much closer to the trunk,’ or the driving force much closer to the cutting bed. That is how the SmartBench can handle similar pushing forces with a smaller lighter design. This is a well-conceived design and produces impressive results.

I would be remiss if I failed to mention the tradeoff that the SmartBench has given up. La Machine can process material heights up to 10.4 inches above the bed. The SmartBench, given a short cutter, may get up to 5.9″.

In summary, I think the SmartBench has made the correct tradeoff decision. I cannot remember processing any material in La Machine that was taller than 4 inches in over seven years.

First Impressions of SmartBench

On May 12^th, the YetiTool SmartBench arrived in the US from YetiTools, Ltd, in Clevedon, Bristol, UK. The SmartBench arrived in three large containers. Two shipping boxes contained the X-axis gantry and the Z-axis head. The final shipping crate was over ten feet in length and housed the machine frame/ Y-axis. The picture shows the shipping containers in my freight elevator on the way to the 5th-floor workshop.

For many of us, first impressions may well be the most important ones we form.

The quality of the shipping containers and the care with which YetiTools packs the components impressed me. Short of a transport disaster, the SmartBench parts will arrive in the very same condition that they leave Clevedon, UK.

When I unpacked the machine parts and checked them against the YetiTool’s Bill of Materials, I was ready to see how quickly I could build the machine. You see, YetiTools has several videos and literature that tout the ease and quickness of the SmartBench assembly.

In my case, the assembly from start to finish was, indeed, rapid. I assembled the SmartBench from its unboxed components and had it booted up in just under 18 minutes. That is an impressively short amount of time to go from a pile of parts to a complex working CNC machine. (The second time I assembled the SmartBench was well under 10 minutes.)

The equipment’s fit and finish were flawless, and I ran into absolutely no issues in its initial build. The instructions were self-explanatory and easy to follow.

I give the SmartBench very high marks for ease of initial assembly and startup.

By the way, I have now used the machine in my shop for a couple of months, and while I do not see a great need to cart a CNC machine around to different job sites, I have taken this CNC apart and moved it several times.

The ease of assembly/disassembly makes the SmartBench ideal for a shop with space constraints whereby the user can free up space when needed by taking it apart and setting it up quickly when the work requirements demand it. My CNC machine simply takes up a chunk of space, and if it is not in current use, I use it for storage. It is 40″ x 72″ with a separate computer console beside it. I have not moved it since occupying my new workshop space.

The final first impression of the SmartBench was the spindle. I designed my CNC with a 3 ¼ hp router with a ½” bit capability. The SmartBench came with an 800-watt AMB spindle with a ¼” maximum shank size.  Actually, the AMB spindle will accept 8mm shank diameter (3/8″) bits, but when was the last time you saw an 8mm diameter bit for sale in the US? I thought it would be interesting to use a CNC with approximately 1/3 of the power and substantially smaller diameter bits.

Initial SmartBench Project:

I wanted to give the SmartBench a fair and rigorous trial for its initial project.

The first project I made on the SmartBench was a full-sized Paulk workbench. If you are not familiar with this type of bench, it is a lightweight cube that is held together with puzzle joints and has a myriad of holes for clamps and bench dogs. Building a Paulk bench was a good test for the machined parts’ accuracy over the full 4′ x 8′ CNC bed.

Not only did I need this type of workbench, but I thought that cutting full sheets of plywood with the accuracy necessary to fit the puzzle piece joints together would be a decent challenge for the SmartBench. I had purchased a set of plans for the Paulk Bench, and, of course, I modified these plans to suit my needs. My design added hundreds of holes that I would use with trim head screws to hold the workbench together and saved the Gcode files as a GBL mm file format. For software, I use Vectric Vcarve Pro for the design program and tool path development and Mach 3 for fabrication.

When I loaded the Gcode files and set out to load it into the machine, I discovered that my design and the SmartBench’s native configuration differed. I designed the Paulk bench orientation for the X and Y axes on my CNC.

I caught this difference during the initial exploration of the SmartBench operating software. The program will show you the bounds of the work area superimposed over a graphic of the machine. It was evident that the Gcode would not produce what I intended. I went back to Vcarve Pro and made the appropriate adjustments in the work piece’s orientation to the SmartBench machine.

One of the other software features that will assist the user in ensuring the code and machine are in sync is having the machine trace the cut file’s outside limits/boundaries. If the user uses hold-downs, this will give them the satisfaction of knowing that the clearances are correct before making mistakes with finished materials. I find this feature very handy to use – especially for newer SmartBench users.

Getting to know SmartBench

They say that old habits die-hard, and I immediately added a ¾” piece of high-quality plywood as a base material/spoil board to cover the machine bed. I added the plywood piece parallel to the long Y-axis and screwed it to the machine bed’s plywood portion. Now I was almost ready to cut my first piece of the Paulk workbench.

I am a licensed pilot, and I require a sterile cockpit and use a checklist during every takeoff and landing – without fail. Even in my CNC work, I use a checklist and create a quiet workplace when starting a cut. I used my La Machine checklist, clamped down the new plywood sheet, and started the SmartBench’s perimeter tracing routine. The SmartBench began tracing the perimeter of the outside limits of the workpiece. When it nearly reached the far end of the X gantry, the SmartBench abruptly stopped, and the Z-axis head immediately began flashing RED. Whoa.

Chalk this one up to a new experience. I clamped down the workpiece at the very far corners. That certainly works on La Machine but not on SmartBench! SmartBench has an aluminum safety bar at the front and back of the X-axis that breaks contact upon hitting any object in its path. Even though placed at the corners, my clamps interfered with the travel of the SmartBench. You can see the clamp in the upper left corner and the aluminum safety bars with red caps on them in the following picture.

That incident led me to make a SmartBench Pre-flight Checklist and create an item on the checklist that I call “Check for Sterile Work Surface,” meaning no materials or clamps extend above the bottom rollers of the upper half of the Y-axis gantry.

Since using the SmartBench, I have learned new “Sterile Work Surface” ways for various hold-down techniques. The new methods are double-sided tape or using CA glue and accelerator on painters’ tape to apply to the machine bed and the workpiece. When called for, I also screw the workpieces directly onto the machine bed. In the latter case, make sure you know where the Y-axis structure is before inserting the screw. You might hit the aluminum structure or put a screw into the moving Y-axis gantry path.

Since the initial attempts at a first cut, I have maintained a Sterile Work Surface for every other SmartBench project and experienced no crashes.

Now the First Fabrication

Armed with the initial experience, I cut the top of the Paulk benchtop. The work progressed flawlessly, and soon I had a Paulk top with a large number of 20 mm and 1.5 mm holes in it. Then I cut the sides, internal partition, and end pieces. Again, the work went along without a hitch.

I measured the pieces and compared the actual dimension to the as-designed measurements. The SmartBench fabricated the first project pieces to the exact intended sizes within a high-quality tape measure’s accuracy. I measured all three axes, and each was perfect.

The spot-on accuracy was not the only thing that impressed me during the initial workpiece. The SmartBench comes fitted with an exhaust port and an exhaust hose on the Z-axis side away from the SmartBench computer. I attached a small shop vac to the port under the machine and plugged the vac into an electrical outlet provided by SmartBench for this purpose. When a project starts on the CNC, the shop vac automatically starts up. It also shuts off at the end of the piece fabrication.

I took videos of the initial cut from overhead, and I have enclosed one of those frames for you to see the lack of dust on the workpiece. YetiTools gets high marks for the effectiveness of its dust collection on SmartBench.

Fitting the Paulk Together

When I dry-fit the top, sides, and internal stiffener pieces together, the assembly mated perfectly. No tools were necessary for assembly. I did not need as much as a rubber mallet to fit the parts together.

After fabrication, I dropped the bottom piece into the subassembly with perfect tolerances.

I was impressed with the precision with which the SmartBench created these Paulk parts.

Next Projects and New Learning Experiences with the SmartBench

While cutting the Paulk Bench, I noticed that the roller wheels on the upper half of the gantry made marks on the work piece’s top surface. This defect may not impact some projects as the surface can be lightly sanded to remove these roller marks. The next project I wanted to cut consisted of three round and engraved cake plates. I certainly did not want to see roller tracks on the finished hardwood surface, so I made some modifications to the spoil board.

The solution I settled on was to install two hard-maple ‘runners’ the full length of the spoil board. In that way, I could adjust the roller sets on either half of the gantry to contact the runners instead of the workpiece. I fixed the runners to the spoil board so that they were parallel to the Y-axis travel. In that way, I could have confidence when I mounted a workpiece, the edge would align with the Y-axis travel.

I also made a series of 90-degree brackets to establish a ‘zero’ point for the three cake plates as I designed them identical in size. That way, I could use the same setup to machine all three pieces. I also wanted to test out accuracy and repeatability using this type of fixture. I was hoping to remove and reinstall a workpiece multiple times and register the toolpaths identically each time. The following picture shows the SmartBench with the runners, one of the brackets, and the maple cake blanks ready to machine.

During the fabrication, I carved both sides of the cake plates and removed and reinstalled the workpieces about a dozen times. I am pleased to say that the machine accuracy and my fixturing technique worked very well. For the second project made on the SmartBench, these finished pieces were precisely what the client wanted.

These plates were a replica of a cake plate that my client’s grandfather made, and she was fond of the design. However, she did want the new ones to be made larger than the original ones. I have included a picture of the first piece I made a couple of years ago next to the original work.

In summary, the first two projects I made on the SmartBench turned out exceptionally well, and I learned a lot about the new machine. I must give it the highest marks for ease of use and accuracy.

Glowing Review So Far, But Did Anything Go Wrong?

The short answer is yes. I ran into some issues that taught me a great deal about the SmartBench machine and a lot about YetiTools and Timberwolf Tools. Every customer, manufacturer, and distributor has an excellent day when everything goes very well. When issues arise, the cream rises to the top, or the dregs sink to the bottom.

First, I had an issue with the SmartBench spindle. It simply quit during a cut. I contacted David Powell at Timberwolf, and within a day, I had a new spindle shipped to me from his office in Maine. YetiTools also sent me a new spindle from the UK. YetiTools asked me to return the dead spindle to them for analysis. The new spindle arrived the next day. I was up and running the day the replacement spindle arrived—a great conclusion to that issue.

The broken spindle was an A+ service experience.

During this time, I had an opportunity to meet and discuss the spindle issue with the UK’s YetiTools personnel. I sent them the Gcode cut files, and we talked through the spindle settings and what other problems might have caused the interruption of service. I knew that the parties would handle my situation on a timely basis because I was reviewing their product, but I am confident that any customer would have had the same rapid response in a similar fix.

In a few days, David called me to let me know that a higher precision Z-axis was under development, and asked if I would be interested in looking at it. Of course, I was curious, and the new Z-axis equipment sounded like it had some compelling improvements.

First, YetiTools replaced the AMB spindle with a 1000 watt unit manufactured by Mafell under contract to YetiTools. (The YetiTools spindle is based upon an existing 1000 watt spindle that Mafell currently sells, the Mafell FM 1000 Milling Motor. The YetiTools’ spindle has additional software control and data monitoring capabilities).

The new head has two lead screws to drive the Z-axis instead of the single lead screw on the current unit. This design would cut down on any backlash introduced by pushing down one side of the collar that houses the spindle. See the picture below for the twin lead screw design.

Another improvement was a new laser to verify that the XY zero point was in a repeatable location. That sounded like a worthwhile enhancement. Finally, new software in the processor would monitor and control the Mafell spindle. YetiTools added a USB data cable between the spindle and the processor. The user can also change the spindle speed on the console and can see if the spindle may be overloading in real-time. All of those changes are quite compelling.

The new assembly arrived in a few weeks. The new equipment upgraded the CNC I was using to the SmartBenchPrecision PRO level. Surprisingly, it took me 7 minutes to upgrade the processor’s software, which was longer than it took me to install an entirely new Y-axis gantry and new head. Everything worked as advertised, and I was quite pleased with the latest improvements. I decided to cut a side section for a Thein Baffle using the new configuration. A Thein Baffle is a clever device used for cyclonically separating sawdust and debris from vacuum extractors.

Uh Oh!

I wanted to get started cutting, but I was careful and decided to ‘air-cut’ the new Gcode file for the Thein Baffle side. So I mounted the workpiece, loaded the G Code file, and changed the Z-axis to a registration zero point about two inches above the actual surface for the air-cut. Finally, I started the carving routine.

My heart almost sank to the floor when the spindle stopped about 15 seconds later. What had I done wrong? I was baffled and did not want to be “That Guy,” the spindle wrecker.

But this story ends quite well.

When I first started using the SmartBench, I was very pleased with the small AMB spindle’s performance. I liked its power and performance and wanted to substitute a smaller spindle for the 15-pound monster router I currently had on my CNC.

As a result, in July, I had purchased a Mafell FM 1000 Milling Motor from Timberwolf Tools to put on La Machine during an upgrade I intended to start later in the year. The Mafell FM1000 and the YetiTools’ spindle shares the same exterior dimensions and mounting collar diameter.

The apparent solution became clear. I mounted my Mafell spindle into the SmartBench head, plugged it into the wall, and kept on cutting. The thein baffle side turned out very well, and the 1000 watts’ additional power and increased accuracy were evident.

I contacted Aaron Thorogood (my contact during the earlier spindle issue) at YetiTools and explained that I somehow broke the new spindle. Over the next couple of days, we conducted a thorough and specific diagnostic and trial procedure to troubleshoot the source. Consistently, the spindle worked for a time without interruption, but as soon as I started a job on the CNC, the identical shutdown occurred.

YetiTools asked me to send them the Gcode during the forensic trials. The good news was that the failures were very repeatable, and the spindle seemed to be operational – mostly. The bad news was that we could not figure out what was causing the fault condition.

Around the fourth day of the examination, Aaron asked me what version of Vcarve Pro I was using. I told him that I had recently upgraded from version 5.06 to 5.07 around the same time as I upgraded the SmartBench software and installed the new head.

The YetiTools engineers tracked down the problem to a software bug in the new Vcarve Pro software version 5.07. It seems that the software arbitrarily added an “S0” code into a line of the Gcode. The “S0” command tells the machine to stop the spindle (provided the particular spindle is equipped with the electronics to utilize software control capabilities). In my case, the Gcode told the spindle to stop running, and the machine software told the SmartBench to stop moving and raise the spindle from the workpiece.

Nothing was flawed – everything worked as planned. The errant “S0” code simply prevented the SmartBench from fabricating the work.

I took a look through my Thein Baffle G Code file, and sure enough, there was an “S0” string in the 13^th line of code. I then deleted those two characters and saved the revised Gcode file. Next, I reinstalled the YetiTools spindle, hooked up the data and power cables, and loaded the modified Gcode to start the cut routine. The SmartBench went about its business and cut me a perfect Thein Baffle side. I encountered no further issues whatsoever. (I am now running Vcarve version 5.08.)

The reason I took the reader through this long-winded story is to provide the background as to why I give the Timberwolf and YetiTools an unqualified thumbs up for customer service and technical expertise. I have experienced many different successes and failures with manufacturers’ and distributors’ customer service organizations over the years.

Without reservation, I rate this combination of Timberwolf Tools and the YetiTools team at the top of my list.

Would I Change Anything or Have Any Recommendations?

The short answer is I would change very little about the SmartBench. But I do have a few items to recommend.

I would fabricate some new dust collector pieces to insert into the cutting head base for those times I plan to cut a project thinner than the height of my runners. The dust extraction does not work as well when there is a gap between the bottom of the factory-supplied dust collector unit and the workpiece. In fact, I would fabricate a set of deeper inserts to provide for the common thin materials I process.

I will pitch another modification to increase the dust collection port’s size that sits between the head and the dust collector hose. Occasionally the G Code steps call for chips to be cut along the grain direction, making ‘noodles’ – long stringy chips. These noodles have caught in the opening to the dust collector hose and choked off the airflow. This modification will take some surgery as the dust collection does pass through the head’s aluminum base plate. Any larger dust port means a redesign of that aluminum plate. This redesign should also take care of a small amount of dust that currently leaks out of the current fittings.

I recommend that the new SmartBench users be comfortable with using the metric system. It will make their experience easier as the machine firmware and operating system require the Gcode to be compiled in the metric form of GRBL for VCarve Pro’s G Code files. I am now designing all of my SmartBench Vcarve files in metric dimensions. I suppose other VCarve users might create in imperial measurements, but the user must then convert that design file to metric dimensions and compile that file in metric GRBL form.

Finally, I spent seven years getting used to designing and fabricating pieces with the X-axis as my long travel and Y-axis as my cross travel in the configuration I have on La Machine. The SmartBench configuration has these axes in reverse of La Machine. I still like to use the cut files that I designed years ago on the SmartBench. When using older files, I catch myself going back and changing the orientation and reference point on these Vcarve files. I would recommend a way for the initial X-Y configuration to be user selectable at the time of purchase.

I am an old dog, and new tricks are tough for us. But seriously, a company with its current machines configured differently from the SmartBench will cause a steeper learning curve for their personnel and may introduce wasted materials for that company.

Other SmartBench features that I like but have not even mentioned thus far:

• The user interface software is intuitive, user-friendly, easy to learn and navigate.
• The Z-axis uses a lead screw drive.
• The X-axis and Y-axis have a rack and pinion drive.
• The SmartBench has a well-designed location for the drag chains that house the interconnection cables between moving machine parts. Most CNC drag chains are close to machine components but are basically exposed and subject to damage. The SmartBench drag chain can be seen tucked away under the drive rack in the picture, below.

• YetiTools made the dust collection insert from plexiglass and allowed the user to observe the cutting bit and material.
• I have not even used the included Shape Cutter routines in the SmartBench software because of my years of experience. The software is intuitive and gives a new user a rapid capability to cut simple shapes.

• The files can be loaded over a wireless connection or by sneakernet with a USB drive.
• The head’s LED lights are a good check on the machine status. From across the room, I can instantly see the machine state by color. Green is good and red is bad. Other colors and flashing sequences represent various machine actions and states.
• SmartBench is a set-and-forget machine (after you know how to use it), allowing me to perform other tasks simultaneously in my workshop.
• This CNC is easy to knock down with one person and store in my shop when I need additional space for other projects – like testing cordless track saws.
• The three current models and offered features appear in the following table

SmartBench Economics

I have nothing but the highest honors to bestow on the YetiTools SmartBench. It is a fine machine in its standard configuration and a nearly perfect machine with the upgraded head. It will cost you some money to purchase, however.

The most compelling question is whether the SmartBench is a good value in the CNC marketplace?

I did a bit of research on the Internet to compare how SmartBench stacks up against other market offerings. To create a basis for comparison, I decided to create a metric for the analysis. Of course, the Internet was where I went to determine the published purchase prices of 9 additional CNC machines (with a computer included).  The metric is the fully loaded purchase price divided by the cutting bed area. How many dollars does it take to buy a square foot of the CNC bed area?

In the SmartBench case, I used their listed price for the SmartBench PrecisionPRO machine at $8,145  and a cutting area of 33.6 Sq. Ft (4.1 x 8.2 Ft). The SmartBench metric of $242.41/Sq. Ft is the yardstick against which I measured nine other CNC machines.

A word on my research: I tried, as best I could, to ensure that each machine was complete with a CPU and machine software included. In some cases, I could not find those specifics. When I discovered a CPU necessary for a complete configuration, I added $750.00 to the manufacturers’ published prices. Note that these prices do not include shipping costs.

Finally, I limited my search to nine other CNC machines. These machines were familiar from my social media exposure and personal market knowledge. I did not conduct an extensive search for any other machines.

In no case do I suggest that this list is an all-inclusive analysis. I invite any readers to do their own metric comparison if they have a particular machine in mind.

It is interesting to note that the SmartBench is truly a plug-and-play machine. It comes complete with everything you need to create a workpiece. All you need is a compatible Gcode file and cutting bits. I am not 100% certain that every machine included in my research can make that claim. Purchasing a CNC machine is involved, and the buyer needs to make sure they have everything necessary to operate.

The SmartBench metric of $238.10/Sq. Ft is truly impressive. The next closest $/Sq. Ft metric is a machine with a bed that is 1/8 the area and costs 2.4 x more on a $/Sq. Ft basis.

Timberwolf Tools also offers a financing option for SmartBench that starts at $171 per month. For the machine billing rate I charge for La Machine, I could pay for that SmartBench monthly payment in less than one half of one day of billable time.

YetiTools SmartBench is genuinely an exceptional value.

Summary

I close this review by restating that the YetiTools SmartBench is a Seed Change in the CNC marketplace.

SmartBench is designed and manufactured by an exceptionally talented, innovative, dedicated, and responsive set of personnel in the UK. In addition, the SmartBench is distributed by a uniquely responsive and caring company that sells and services a series of the highest quality and innovative tools in the US – Timberwolf Tools.

I look forward to seeing SmartBench’s progress in the marketplace, and I give YetiTools the highest marks for creating a revolutionary machine. It has been a pure pleasure to use and review the YetiTools SmartBench.

Postscript:

Since finishing the final draft of this review and its publication, I learned that the unique clamping system on the SmartBench is under patent consideration in the US and EU. Also, YetiTools is considering a 63mm (2 ½”) dust port for the SmartBench.

www.yetitool.com

www.timberwolftools.com

YetiTool SmartBench CNC Machine is a post from Tool Box Buzz

Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20 Review

Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20

4.5/5

Manufacturer: Milwaukee
Model number: 2723-20
Price: 179.00
Power source: 18 volt X2 [36V]
Motor size: 10,000 – 31,000 RPM
Weight: 2 lbs 15.4 oz [bare tool]

Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router Applications

Smaller routers, like the Milwaukee router are useful in applications such as:

• Duplicating parts
• Cutting hinge mortises
• Profiling edges
• Flush cutting veneer
• Trimming shelf lipping
• Flush cutting plugs
• Making small moldings

Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20 Specifications

• Collet: 1/4″
• No Load Speed: 10,000 – 31,000 RPM
• Battery: 18V
• Width: 3-3/4″
• Length: 5-1/2″
• Height: 10-3/4″
• Weight:  2lb 15.4 oz  [bare tool]
• Variable Speed: yes
• LED light: Yes

Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20 Performance Evaluations

We looked at several categories:

• Features – an overall comparison of features and specifications.
• Ergonomics – Ergonomics is really important to users and an important category to consider when purchasing any power tool. In addition to traditional ergonomics, we also included functionality in this category.
• Performance – The performance evaluation took a very deep dive into router motors and how fast cut a dado into AC plywood.
• Run time – The run-time evaluation proves the user with a good baseline of expected work per battery charge. We use 1/2 round router bits to come up with a linear foot length and compute that to carpenter speak of “number of window sills” routed.
• Price – Price is always an important factor in determining which router is best for a user. We’ve included the current pricing found online for the routers at the time of publication.

There were a few stand-out features that affect performance and safety.

Power Switch

The Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router power switch is centered and well placed. the switch has a rubber boot that protects it from  dust and water. We found it durable and liked the switch placement which is set up for a right-handed user.

Variable Speed Adjustment

The Milwaukee router variable speed switch is set up for right-handed users. As a right-handed user, the dial is perfectly placed for your thumb to adjust the tool while gripping it. The speed dial knob has protruding ribs, for easy grip and use. It was easy to adjust on the fly.

Router Base Depth Adjustment

The Milwaukee router has an outstanding quick-release lever. It utilizes a push-button macro adjustment and a dial for micro-adjustments. The micro screw adjustment knob on the Milwaukee is rubberized, is easy to grip and is precise and smooth to operate.   This router has the best base adjustment of all the routers I’ve used.

LED Work light

The Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20 has two ERY BRIGHT LED bulbs. We liked that the router LEDs do not cast a shadow, and the light stays on for 15-seconds after turning off the tool or pressing the unlock button.

Electric Brake

an electric brake stops the router bit instantly, when turned off.  Electric brakes on routers is a huge safety feature.

Base Plate

The Milwaukee comes with two plates and is a great value. The larger of the two plates is a 5-3/4” sub-base and is perfect for template bushing routing. Template bushings are typically used with mortising hinge jigs.

Overall Ergonomics

Ergonomics is the science of designing and producing tools that improve a worker’s efficiency while reducing discomfort, fatigue, and risk of injury.

The Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20 is one of the nicest designed compact routers Ive tested. It is a VERY comfortable too to use for long periods.  It has excellent balance, is easy to change the bit, has an excellent line of sight and is one of the easiest routers when it comes to depth adjustment.

Milwaukee Router Grip

You may not pay much attention to grip, but if you’re mass-producing stock for a project, grip matters! The Milwaukee has the  best router grip that I’ve seen when comparing to other compact routers. It has a full rubberized coverage, and is comfortable to grip.

Milwaukee Router Bit change

The Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router has 6 spindle lock positions. The other three routers have cut out holes in the shaft, that allow 2-positions (180 degrees to engage spindle lock). With regard to the actual spindle lock button, the Makita has a superior collet button over the others. Changing the bit is straightforward and easy.

Ease of Adjusting Depth of Cut

Ergonomically speaking the easiest base adjustment of all the routers on the market is the  Milwaukee, utilizing a push-button macro adjustment and a dial for micro-adjustments. The rubberized knob is easy to grip, adjust and precise.

Line of Sight

It is no secret that the routers with the larger base opening provided a better line of sight. The Milwaukee has a large base opening at 2-5/8″ and 2-1/2″ respectively.  The larger opening and strong LED light help provide an excellent best line of sight.

Router Housing – Fit and Finish

Fit and Finish was not scored but does show through in the total Head-to-Head scoring.  Milwaukee all has durable aluminum router housings. Better quality construction, materials, seams, and adjustments show thorough here.

Cordless Router Run-time Test

In order to simulate a real carpentry application for our run-time testing, a window sill routing procedure was used. This is an application that relates directly to trim carpenters in the field. A 3/8″ round-over bit and bearing was used to rout two sides of a seven-foot Poplar board.

Testing Procedure:

1. Install a new Rockler 3/8″ round-over bit
2. Use a fully-charged 6.0 Ah battery
3. Set router to highest speed
4. A 1-2 second per foot, feed-rate was used
5. 7-feet of the board was routed on 4-edges
6. Rest tool while rotating the board and ripping edges off
7. Repeat until unable to complete procedure
8. This was an aggressive test for these routers but realistic if a carpenter was to mass-produce all the window sills needed for a large house.

Run-Time Test Results

The Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router plowed through the material with ease and was able to make 88 1/2 rounded steps for a total of 308 lf. When you translate that into carpenter talk, this router is capable of making 106 window sills 36-inches long.

Milwaukee [bare tool] Accessories

The Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router 2723-20  comes with some [value added] accessories, clearly, they were thinking of their users and common applications. The bare tool accessories are:

1. Dust Shroud
2. Straight Edge Guide – fits common jigs without dipping [e.g. hinge jig]
3. Larger 5-3/4” sub-base plate with an opening sized for template bushings,

Overall Thoughts

Overall, the Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router consistently performs as well as a corded version, but without the cord! That alone is enough for me to make the transition. The fact that we now have a compact and powerful cordless router on the M18 platform.

Milwaukee FUEL M18 Router is a post from Tool Box Buzz

Best Cordless 18-Volt Router

Advantages of a Cordless Router

As a carpenter, I use a compact router to make my own window sills when trimming windows, easing edges on decking and trim, creating chamfers, installing built-ins, mortising hinges, and sometimes to make on-the-spot moldings.  More and more contractors are cutting the cord on their job sites and the ability for a cordless router to move freely around a job site is a huge plus.

Smaller routers, like these cordless routers, are useful in applications such as:

• Duplicating parts
• Cutting hinge mortises
• Profiling edges
• Cleaning veneer
• Trimming shelf lipping
• Flush cutting plugs
• Cutting joinery
• Sign making
• Mortising inlays
• Making small moldings

Best Cordless Router – Lineup

For this Head-to-Head evaluation, five cordless routers were selected. In order to keep the tools in this Head-to-Head somewhat similar, each manufacturer was asked to provide a router and 6.0 Ah battery. The following cordless routers were included in the test:

1. DEWALT
   
2. Makita
3. Milwaukee
4. RIDGID
5. Ryobi

DEWALT  DCW600 18-Volt Cordless Router

RIDGID R860443B 18-Volt Cordless Router

• Collet: 1/4″
• No Load Speed: 17,000-25,000 RPM
• Battery: 18V 
• Width: 3-1/4″
• Length: 5-1/2″
• Height: 10-1/8″
• Weight:  2lb 6.6 oz [bare tool]
• Variable Speed: yes
• LED light: Yes
• RIDGID R86044

Ryobi P601 18-Volt Cordless Router

• Collet: 1/4″
• No Load Speed:  29,000 RPM
• Battery: 18V 
• Width: 3-1/4″
• Length: 5-3/4″ 
• Height: 11″
• Weight:  2lb 12.8oz [bare tool]
• Variable Speed: yes
• LED light: Yes
• Ryobi P601

Cordless Router Performance Evaluations

The challenge for any Head-to-Head test is developing the testing and evaluation criteria in order to create a valuable comparison for users. Two relative, measurable comparison tests were performed:  performance and run-time. These tests will give you an excellent  baseline on overall tool performance.

In addition to the performance evaluations, each of the crew members spent time using the routers in order to evaluate them independently. The performance evaluations and these additional factors were used to determine the Best Cordless Router. All of the factors compared included:

• Features – an overall comparison of features and specifications.
• Ergonomics – Ergonomics is really important to users and an important category to consider when purchasing any power tool. In addition to traditional ergonomics, we also included functionality in this category.
• Performance – The performance evaluation took a very deep dive into router motors and how fast cut a dado into AC plywood.
• Run time – The run-time evaluation proves the user with a good baseline of expected work per battery charge. We use 1/2 round router bits to come up with a linear foot length and compute that to carpenter speak of “number of window sills” routed.  
• Price – Price is always an important factor in determining which router is best for a user. We’ve included the current pricing found online for each of the routers at the time of publication.

Rockler Woodworking Router Bits

Rockler Woodworking provided the bits for this testing. All the bits performed well and we greatly appreciate Rockler Woodworking for the help. The bits used for the testing were:

1. Five 3/8″ round-over/beading bits for the window sill run-time test
2. Five 31/64″ (1/2″ plywood) dado bits for the performance testing

“Hey! This round-over bit comes with a beading bearing, sweet!” -Ethan

Best Cordless Router Features

WINNER – DEWALT

There were a few stand-out features that affect performance and safety.  Each tool was ranked, using a 1 thru 5 scores, 1 being the best, to determine the tool with the best feature ranking. A list of some of them is included below.

The DEWALT barely took first place coming in at 12-points, just 1-point ahead of the Milwaukee. The Makita and RIDGID were third and fourth with 23 and 24-points respectively.

The DEWALT had a 1 or 2 score in almost every category, except the base plate.

Power Switch

The best switches were the Makita, DEWALT, and Milwaukee in that order.

The Makita has a 2-step operation safety switch. The unlock button places to tool in standby mode [unlocks it] then the power button turns on the router. After turned off, and inactive for 10-seconds the tool locks again. As long as the LED lights are on you can operate the tool with the power switch. Once the LED light turns off, you need to press the unlock button first.  This separate lock button may seem like a pain but is smart, it helps prevent the accidental start-up of the tool for user and work-piece protection. We’d like to see a longer time than a 10-second dwell.

The RIDGID router has a pull-out switch, in order to turn on and turn off the tool. This switch is awkward to use and not intuitive to use.

Switch placement was also considered and the routers that had an ambidextrous switch placement fared better. For example the Makita and Ryobi switch placement is on the front and rear of the tool respectively. The DEWALT and the Milwaukee and more geared to high handed user.

Variable Speed Adjustments

The DEWALT has the best variable speed dial adjustment, followed by the RIDGID and then Makita. DEWALT and RIDGID variable speed dials have an ambidextrous setup, located on the backside of the tool. The Makita and Milwaukee are set up for right-handed users. As a right-handed user, the dial is perfectly placed for your thumb to adjust the tool while gripping it.

The Milwaukee variable speed dial knob has protruding ribs, for easy grip and use. The Makita speed dial is recessed, and difficult to find when using, but has the SMOOTHEST adjustment of all the routers tested.

Router Base Depth Adjustments

All routers have a quick-release lever, but they differ in style and quality on the micro and macro adjustments. For example, Makita uses a quick-release cam lever to adjust or remove the router base. But for micro-adjustments, they utilize a rack-and-pinion depth adjustment system. This adjustment is smooth, fast and super easy to use. There is some slop in this adjustment making micro-adjustments difficult. The aluminum housing of the router is etched and has easy-to-read Imperial and Metric depth scales.

The best base adjustment of all the routers was the Milwaukee, utilizing a push-button macro adjustment and a dial for micro-adjustments. The micro screw adjustment knob on the Milwaukee is rubberized, is easy to grip and is precise and smooth to operate. The other routers were more difficult to adjust.

One really nice feature on the RIDGID and Ryobi routers is the micro-adjust dial for adjusting the depth of cut. The RIDGID quick release lever had to be adjusted by the team prior to testing, it was loose and not holding its adjustment.

The DEWALT is precise and has a screw adjust using a thread-cut into the router housing barrel, called a “depth adjustment ring.” This ring is used for micro-adjustments but also the larger, macro adjust. Macro-adjusting is not as easy and requires the user to release the depth adjustment ring. We liked the precision of this adjustment ring, but not the slower speed.

While setting up the DEWALT for run-time testing, we noticed that if you grip the tool high (by the depth adjustment ring) the tool came out of adjustment. We tightened the quick release lever but it still occurred. As a result, we had to be cognizant NOT to grip the router high. This is something DEWALT may want to look at, and something that we found annoying and a problem if you want to set this tool up as a window sill “set-and-forget,” tool.

RIDGID and Ryobi have identical mechanisms and easy to use. When utilizing the spring-loaded lever,  macro adjustment, the base easily slides along the entire housing. The Micro adjustment is done via a screw and works well.

Stan – I LOVE the idea of a rack and pinion adjustment (Makita) but there is a definite backlash in its micro-adjustment.

LED Work light

All of the routers have at least one LED work light. The DEWALT, Makita and Milwaukee routers have two LEDs.  The brightest light is the Milwaukee followed by the DEWALT and then Makita. All three of these router LEDs cast a shadow less light. The DEWALT LED work light stays on for 20 seconds after the tool is shut off, Milwaukee stays on for 15-seconds, Makita for 12-seconds.

That Milwaukee light could land the space shuttle ~ Jeff Deitz

Electric Brake 

With regard to stopping the router bit, the DEWALT and Milwaukee stop the bit instantly when turned off. The other routers take a second or two to spin down. Electric brakes on routers is a huge safety feature.

Base Plate

The team liked the DEWALT  1/2 round and 1/2 square shape base plate. (See photo below), The DEWALT has the best general purpose base plate.  The Milwaukee and RIDGID offer the best value, and come with two larger base plates for template bushing routing.

The Makita had the smallest base plate and was not as stable as the other router tested. When testing the Makita we found that our Rockler round-over bit was too big, and touched the sub-base plate. The reasoning for this is the Makita provides a sub-base plate designed and sized for template bushings.

Template bushings are typically used with mortising hinge jigs. In order to use this Makita router, base and router bit, we had to turn on the router and cut through the base-plate with the bit.

The Milwaukee router, includes a 5-3/4” sub-base plate with an opening sized for template bushings. The sub-base plate is perfect for mortising jigs or where more stability is desired. ~ Rob Robillard

We worked with many users in the field who would grab their full-size routers to mortise hinges specifically because they had wide sub-base plates. They were afraid that their compact routers would dip into the jig and ruin their cuts. Makita may want to supply a larger base with their router.

Best Cordless Router Ergonomics

WINNER – Milwaukee

Ergonomics is the science of designing and producing tools that improve a worker’s efficiency while reducing discomfort, fatigue, and risk of injury. Ergonomically enhanced tools can include helpful features such as rubber oversold, ambidextrous switches, and increased line of sight. Whether you’re shopping for ergonomic tools or just trying to select the right one for the job from an existing collection, the key things to consider are whether or not the tool eases your work and prevents you from straining in ways that could lead to injury.

The Milwaukee scored 1 and 2 in every category except the weight and usability of the power switch and came in first place with 12-points. It is a VERY comfortable too to use for long periods. Following in second place was the DEWALT with 14 points and Makita with 18  points.

Grip

You may not pay much attention to grip, but if you’re mass-producing stock for a project, grip matters! The best router grip was the Milwaukee with its full rubberized coverage. The second was the Makita. Both of these two designs are of similar size and seem to have found a sweet spot in grip oversold and diameter.

The Ryobi also has a comfortable grip but it is a super bulky and top-heavy router, with its stem pack battery.  The DEWALT router has a large barrel resulting in a less comfortable grip that causes fatigue over time.

This router [Makita] fits the best in my hand ~ Rob Robillard

Weight

The lightest router [bare tool] is the RIDGID followed by the Ryobi.  When the Ryobi has a  6.oAh stem-pack battery attached it is 11″ tall – the second tallest router in the pack, second only to DEWALT at 11-1/4″.

Weight in this test related directly to size as well. The DEWALT is the thickest diameter router and also the heaviest. Users with larger hands may find the DEWALT comfortable, but we found the grip diameter too big.

Ease of Bit Change

When changing out the router bit you need to engage a spindle lock and rotate the spindle shaft to engage the lock. The DEWALT has the best spindle lock. The DEWALT has 12 indents that easily and quickly lock in every direction. This spindle lock also allows the user to tighten or loosen through ratcheting the collet with a wrench.

Milwaukee has 6 spindle lock positions. The other three routers have cut out holes in the shaft, that allow 2-positions (180 degrees to engage spindle lock). With regard to the actual spindle lock button, the Makita has a superior collet button over the others.

Ease of Adjusting Depth of Cut

Ergonomically speaking the easiest base adjustment of all the routers was the Milwaukee, utilizing a push-button macro adjustment and a dial for micro-adjustments. The rubberized knob is easy to grip, adjust and precise.

Line of Sight

It is no secret that the routers with the larger base opening provided a better line of sight. The DEWALT and Milwaukee both have the largest base opening at 2-5/8″ and 2-1/2″ respectively.  The larger opening and strong LED light help provide the best line of sight.

Router Housing – Fit and Finish  

Fit and Finish was not scored but does show through in the total Head-to-Head scoring. DEWALT, Makita, and Milwaukee all have durable aluminum router housings, the RIDGID and Ryobi have plastic housings. Better quality construction, materials, seams, and adjustments show thorough here. 

One thing we noticed was that unlike the others the Ryobi housing is completely sealed at the router collet. This design means the Ryobi cannot blow away the sawdust. We question whether the lack of cooling vents will have long-term impacts on the tool longevity. We spoke to Ryobi and they’ve zero problem with overheating or returns due to heat.

Cordless Router Run-time Test Procedure

In order to simulate a real carpentry application for our run-time testing, a window sill routing procedure was used. This is an application that relates directly to trim carpenters in the field. A 3/8″ round-over bit and bearing was used to rout two sides of a seven-foot Poplar board.

Testing Procedure:

1. Each router received a new Rockler 3/8″ round-over bit
2. A brass “set-up bar” was used to set the depth of the bits
3. Each router used a fully-charged 6.0 Ah battery
4. All routers were sent to their highest speed
5. A 1-2 second per foot, feed-rate was used
6. 7-feet of the board was routed on 4-edges
7. Rest tool while rotating the board and ripping edges off
8. Repeat until unable to complete procedure

This was an aggressive test for these routers but realistic if a carpenter was to mass-produce all the window sills needed for a large house.

Cordless Router – Run-Time Test Results

Winner – DEWALT

During this test over 3500 linear feet of Poplar was used. The DEWALT cordless router came in first place blowing away the competition by routing 472.5 linear feet which equals 157.5  three-foot window sills or a bit under 1/10 of a mile.

I think the DEWALT did more steps today than I did. -Ethan

** 1750 LF of “Window-Sill” – 3/4″ Round Poplar Nosing

Second place was the RIDGID with 364 linear feet  [equaling 121 window sills] and third place was the Makita routing 318.5  linear feet [equaling 106 window sills]

We noticed that the DEWALT and Milwaukee plowed through the material with ease while the Makita was slower cutting. The RIDGID router was also slower cutting and had noticeably more vibration than DEWALT, Makita, and Milwaukee. The Ryobi router felt similar to the RIDGID in terms of vibration but also felt more top-heavy than the other tools probably due to the size and weight of the Ryobi battery pack.

Cordless Router Performance Test Procedure

To determine the relative performance of the individual routers a test rig was used to keep all of the variables as similar as possible. This test shows that the router with the highest performance removes the plywood material faster than the other, slower machines. The time was recorded for each router to complete 14 cuts. This test is less about speed and more about the power of each router.

In order to simulate a real carpentry application for our run-time testing. A dado routing procedure was used.  A 31/64″ (1/2″ plywood) dado bit was used to cut a 0.10″ deep dado in AC plywood.

Testing Procedure:

1. A new 31/64″ (1/2″ plywood) Rockler two-wing carbide dado bit was used on each router.
2. A fully charged, 6.0 Ah battery was used for each test.
3. The same sheet of 3/4″ AC plywood provided all 5 pieces used for the 14 cuts.
4. A CNC router station ensured constant dimension and auto-setting the depth of cut to zero and then dialing in the same 0.10″ cut depth before the trial for any given router.  [Control cut depth  tolerance of .001″ using the Mach 3 software]
5. An equal force was applied to each router through the same gravity load to pull the gantry of the CNC router with the same force through a system of pulleys and consistent weights.
6. All routers operated at their fastest RPM setting.
7. The amount of time that it takes each router to plunge through the plywood material over 14 individual cuts were recorded.

Cordless Router Performance Test Results

Winner – DEWALT

AC plywood was used for these tests. Carpenters often use AC plywood to make plywood boxes or shelves and the bits used are designed to make plywood-sized dado or rabbit cuts. The Performance Test was run multiple times in order to even out the differences in the density of the individual pieces of plywood. The test was performed seven times in the rough “C” side of the plywood and then run seven more times on the “A” side of the plywood.

Observations made showed the times in the  “C” side of the plywood was consistently faster than the times in the “A” side. This result was true for all routers that completed the Performance Test. We assume that the “C” side contains less dense sets of plys than those used on the “A” side. The difference between the two sides of the plywood is shown in the following graph. The “A” side of the plywood cuts was the 8th through the 14th cuts. 

One clear surprise was the performance of the RIDGID router in the Performance Test. The RIDGID router only cut a 4-3/4″ long dado into the 48” material on the first attempt. On the second attempt, the RIDGID only cut a 3-5/8” long dado. As a result, we declared the RIDGID as a DNF (Did Not Finish) on the Performance Test.

Note: RIDGID did not complete the Performance Test.

The DEWALT router was the clear winner of the Performance Test. Its average time of 6.1 seconds to cut a dado into a 48” piece of AC plywood was almost 25% faster than the runner-up. Makita was second with an average time of 7.5 seconds. Ryobi and Milwaukee finished with times of 8.5 and 9.2 seconds, respectively.

The Performance Test puts the routers through their paces because the router bit is relatively good-sized in diameter and both sides and the bottom of the bit is cutting material at all times. This is in contrast to cutting with a round-over bit that has one cutting surface at a time engaged with the material for only about 90 degrees of the bit rotation, The winning router is the one that removes the most material in the least amount of time. A logical conclusion might be to bet on the router with the highest RPM, given that it has more cuts per unit of time, right?

The Milwaukee router has the highest unloaded RPM rating at 31,000 RPM but placed 4th out of 4 routers.

The DEWALT has almost the slowest unloaded RPM rating at 25,500 RPM but won the Performance Test.

The combination of rotational speed coupled with the highest delivered torque is what wins this test. The following bullet list shows the unloaded RPM rating for the tested routers.

Winner: Makita [Best Value]

The Makita router is tied for second-lowest price in the test but comes out near the top in testing. This router was a no-brainer selection and is a great value. Pricing is a key part of the purchasing mix, and it’s crucial that you get it right in order to determine the Best 18 Volt cordless router. For this Head-to-Head we looked at bare-tool pricing to eliminate discrepancies in the composition of the kits provided by different manufacturers.

One interesting thing about the Milwaukee [bare tool] is that it comes with some [value added] accessories, clearly, they were thinking of their users and common applications. The bare tool accessories are:

• Dust Shroud
• Straight Edge Guide – fits common jigs without dipping [e.g. hinge jig]
• Larger 5-3/4” sub-base plate with an opening sized for template bushings,

The Makita cordless router [bare tool] is a mirror image of the corded RT0701C 1-1/4 HP corded Compact Router. That means that all the expensive accessories, like plunge bases, tilt bases, guides and dust shrouds, that users already own, will fit the cordless router. That’s not only smart but a nice thing to do. Clearly Makita is thinking about its tool users and making the transition to go cordless more cost-effective and cheaper.

The RIDGID router comes [bare tool] with a straight edge set up, larger rounded sub-base plate with an opening sized for template bushings and a storage bag.

Below is a table showing the pricing (at the time of publication) of each tool:

Best In Class Cordless Router

Winner – DEWALT

The old advertisement from Virginia Slims said it best, “You’ve come a long way, baby.”

The fact that we now have a choice in cordless trim routers that are real workhorses is great for the industry. Our overall winner, the DEWALT DCW600 carved up almost 1/5 of a mile of rounded-over trim on one 6.0 amp-hr battery charge! The DEWALT took first place with a ranked score of 9 points.

The Makita XTR01Z router, is a great value, and was a smooth and precise unit. It took second place with a score of 10 points, right on the heels of DEWALT.

The new Milwaukee 2723-20 came in third with a score of 13. It won the ergonomics category and was a strong finisher in the other tests, as well.  The RIDGID and Ryobi routers certainly held their own in this competition with impressive runtimes and power respectively.

Overall, we saw a series of tools that performed in the same league as their corded trim router counterparts. The bottom line, these routers consistently performed as well as its corded version, but without the cord! That alone is enough for me to make the transition. The fact that we now have a compact and powerful cordless router to work with is huge.  

Best Cordless Router Video Review

Best Cordless Router – Head-To-Head is a post from Tool Box Buzz

Ryobi ONE+ Cordless Router Review Model P601

Specifications

• Battery: 18V
• Collet Size: 1/4”
• Bulb: LED
• Speed: 29,000 RPM (No-Load Speed)
• Weight: 2.80 lbs.
• Warranty: Ryobi offers a limited three (3) year warranty and a 90 day exchange policy on their power tools. More information can be found at their website.

THE BOTTOM LINE…

In the end, this cordless router will is a great addition to your tool arsenal and a must have if you are already on the Ryobi 18V ONE+ product line. This lightweight, portable router can cut that cord from another job site task of mortising hardware into your project and easing the edges of your trim.

Anybody from the DIYer to professional will find it extremely useful because it’s compact size and easy depth adjustment. The P601 cordless router can be found exclusively at The Home Depot and is a great addition to the ONE+ line.

Ryobi ONE+ Cordless Router

Buy Now

$69.00

RYOBI ONE+ Cordless Router Review is a post from Tool Box Buzz

MAKITA 18 V 1-1/4 H.P. Cordless Router Review

Makita 18 V Cordless Compact Router

4.5/5

Manufacturer: Makita
Model number: XTR01Z
Price: 135.00
Power source: 18 Volt
Motor size: Brushless
Weight: 4.6

Who would’ve guessed, back then, that cordless tools would be as powerful as their corded brethren. Lately, MAKITA’s goal is to only launch new, cordless tools of they were equal to or better than their corded version.

Makita Compact Router XTR01Z

We recently took the MAKITA 18V LXT brushless cordless compact router XTR01Z to the jobsite and for some testing in our shop. This router is geared toward the Pro contractor. These days, so many people are using compact routers do the lion share of their routing applications.

The exciting thing about this new cordless router, besides being cordless, is that is a mirror image to the corded RT0701C 1-1/4 HP Compact Router. That means that all the expensive accessories, like plunge bases, tilt bases, guides and dust shrouds, that guys already own, will FIT the cordless router. Not only is it a similar looking router but it will provide you with similar performance to its corded version.

That’s not only smart, but a nice thing to do. Clearly Makita is thinking about its tool users, and making the transition to go cordless more cost-effective and cheaper.

Makita Cordless Router First Impression

Seeing a battery on a router is a bit strange, but a VERY welcomed sight. The new 18V LXT Router has a durable aluminum housing, and a rubber over-mold that really allows you to grip the motor housing.

This router measures 8-7/8″ tall; weighs 4.6 lbs. with battery, and the battery pack is located on top of the tool which makes sense for balance, since this is a sliding tool.

NEW to this tool is the addition of two bright, and well placed LED lights. The lights are situated on either side of the collet and are controlled by a separate electronic switch. This LED switch is also the lock / unlock switch for the router.

Motor and Power Switch

The 18V LXT Router is a great addition for trim, cabinetry and woodworking applications. It has brushless motor and a variable speed control dial with five settings to match the speed to the application:

1. 10,000 rpm
2. 15,000 rpm
3. 20,000 rpm
4. 25,000 rpm
5. 30,000 rpm

The router has built-in electronics to control speed and maintain torque and RPM under load, as well as a, soft start feature.

To turn the tool on, you must first press the unlock button, which also activates the LED lights. Then to turn the tool on you press the power button. As long as the LED lights are on you can operate the tool with the power switch. Once the LED light turns off, you need to press the unlock button first. The LED lights stay on for 10-seconds after to tool is powered down.

This separate lock button may seem like a pain, but I think it’s smart. It helps prevent accidental start-up of the tool for user and workpiece protection.

Router Base Adjustment

Next to being cordless, the router base adjustment gets me excited. Like most router manufacturers MAKITA uses a quick release cam lever to adjust or remove the router base. But for micro adjustments, I love how MAKITA uses a rack-and-pinion depth adjustment system, which lets you dial precise settings. This adjustment is smooth, fast and super easy to use. Frankly it blows away most of the competitor’s adjustment.

The aluminum housing of the router also has etched in and easy-to-read Imperial and Metric depth scales.

This router Uses 1/4″ shank routers bits and has a plunge capacity of 0 – 1-3/8″ with plunge base attached.

Accessories

Additional bases and attachments are available (sold separately). For users of corded Makita compact routers, (models RT0700C, RT0701C), the bases used with these corded routers are fully compatible with the cordless router. (XTR01Z) In addition, the cordless router easily connects to Makita vacuum cleaners with the optional dust nozzle for improved dust extraction. We used the dust shroud to do our testing, it worked great and we enjoyed dust free routing.

I want to stress that this accessory compatibility is an awesome feature and one that will save you money and, as MAKITA hopes, will help the transferring to cordless less painful.

Visibility

Half of the router base is a sturdy rubber over mold and the other half is open to view the collet. Enhanced with the two LEDs visibility on this router is excellent. Even with the clear plastic dust shroud, visibility is good, although it does occasionally need to be wiped clen.

Dust Collection

We used the clear plastic dust collection nozzle. This nozzle is designed for use with fixed base and quickly and easily attached to the base. At first I connected the router to my dust collector, and due to the longer run, it collected about 50% of the dust. Afterward I connected it to my shop vacuum, which increased that to 95% collection. As an added bonus – the fixed base dust shroud completely closes off the area to the collet, enhancing safety for hand placement.

We tested two dust collecting shrouds:

• 195559-1 Dust nozzle (fixed base, router)
• 194733-8 Dust nozzle (plunge base, router)

Using the MAKITA Cordless Router

The shaft lock on the MAKITA router is a simple push button that indexes a pint in to the collet shaft, simple and effective.

When routing I found the router was the perfect weight and was well balanced. It was not too light where the router “walks, or chatters” along the surface. It cut well, and had plenty of power to handle small to medium routing applications. This router is easy to operate, has great visibility, and power.

Improvements

There is nothing negative too say about this router, it does exactly what it says it will do, and does it well.  As far as improvement goes, we think the plunge base, dust shroud attachment is weak and needs to be revamped.

While using this dust shroud with a dust hose attached, the weight of the hose popped the “clip-tab” out of its indexing hole, and caused the front portion of the shroud to contact the router bit. As a result, the should was damaged and ineffective moving forward.

We reached out to MAKITA and were told that this shroud has been out since 2008 with NO Issues! It’s possible that I experienced a freak and isolated incident.

Runtime Testing

Runtime is impressive to say the least. MAKITA tested this router and in Red Oak with a 6mm straight bit set to a 4 mm depth. They achieved the following:

• Cuts up to 150’ with a 2.0Ah
• Cuts up to 380’ with a 5.0Ah

I tested the MAKITA compact router in my shop and was able to route 208 Lf lineal feet of 3/4” Poplar stock with a 3/8” round-over bit.

To a finish carpenter that equates to 26 [half-rounded] window sills 48” long, on a single 5.0 Ah battery. That’s almost a whole house of windows, and more windows than I can trim out in a day.

Testing Procedure:

I wanted to simulate a real carpentry application for our run time testing. I chose a window sill routing procedure, where I typically would use a 1/4 round over bit and rout two sides of a boards edge.

For the test, eight lineal feet of routing basically equaled a 48″ wide window sill. My testing procedure was based on the following:

I used a lightly used, 3/8” round over bit with a bearing, and 8′ Poplar boards.

1. Use approximately a 5 second per foot, feed-rate
2. Route 8-feet of board
3. Rest tool while rotating board and clamping.
4. Repeat 3X
5. Rest tool 10 minutes
6. Repeat until unable to complete procedure

The reason for resting the tool was to avoid heat buildup in the battery or brushless motor.  I also wanted to simulate a real life carpentry application.

Mass Production Note:

Typically, I would rout a window sill or several sills and then go off and install them, including the window casing trim.  It’s rare that I would mill up an entire house at one time, and if I did I would probably do that in the shop on a table mounted router.

Cost

Bare Tool:  $ 135.00

Kitted: 370.00 (Tool, 2 batteries, charger, plunge base, straight edge accessory, and an interlocking storage case)

Overall Impression

The MAKITA 18V Cordless Compact Router, model XTR01Z operated smoothly and cut precisely. We appreciated that MAKITA took the time to mirror their corded router in quality and performance. There is very little difference between the new cordless and the older cored version.

Bottom line, this router consistently performs as well as its corded version, but without the cord! That alone is enough for me to make the transition. The fact that we now have a compact, and powerful router to work with is huge. If your already on the MAKITA battery platform this is a no-brainer tool addition, if you’re not, you may want to!

We’ve come a long way in 20-years!

MAKITA 18V Cordless compact Router Video Review

MAKITA 18V LXT Cordless Compact Router XTR01Z is a post from Tool Box Buzz